Wednesday, June 15, 2011

...the windy islands

Batanes in gray weather

Indoors is not a word that comes to mind when you see the lush rolling hills and the sea that stretches out, redefining your concept of blue.

But Batanes, being on the northernmost tip of the country, often gets cloudy and stormy weather. Whether you're prepared or not, bad weather means touring will be a bit difficult, and you can forget about island hopping.

Fortunately, there are indoor spots on the island that are worth a visit any time of year.

Local artists make this tiny art gallery worth a visit
1. Yaru nu artes Ivatan - The National Road is dotted with stores that sell groceries and hardware supplies. But a few meters away from the only gasoline station is a pleasant surprise - a tiny art gallery.

Far from the minimalist design of many galleries in Manila, this one is bright and colorful. The large window is tiled with stained glass, and the inside looks like a giant Care Bear went crazy with a box of crayons.

On display are works by members of the Yaru nu Artes Ivatan, an association of artists from Batanes whose mission is "to help make the arts an eco-friendly industry for sustainable livelihood that supports the indigenous culture and heritage of the islands."

2. Zantan canteen - "This place would be perfect, if there were a bookstore somewhere," my husband told me after seven days in Batanes. That night, we discovered Zantan Canteen, and Batanes indeed became perfect.

Although it isn't a bookstore, as its name correctly implies, the place has a very well-stocked shelf of books. The books are not for sale, and they can’t be borrowed either. But they can be read inside the canteen, and the cozy tables are just right for every couch potato's idea of multitasking: reading while snacking.

Like everywhere else on the island, the service at the canteen is great. Sunny days and the great outdoors, rainy afternoons with hot coffee and a good book. Batanes is perfect.

Xavier Mirabueno is a rocker who also makes this great pizza
3. Casa Napoli - Pizza is my serious answer to the question "What do you miss most about Batanes?"

Bluer than blue skies, sparkling seas, grass that is greenest on every side - this is all great, but Xavier Mirabueno's pizza is the stuff that makes Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles say "Awesome." The rock and roll musician turned chef only uses 100 percent mozzarella cheese, homemade dough and freshly picked herbs. Sometimes the ingredients run out before he can get the next batch delivered, so call in advance to find out if they're open.

4. Bunker Cafe - You've seen the lighthouse on postcards, and you'll surely see it if you go to Batanes as it's one of the staple stops for tours. But what you might not know is that the lighthouse is also beautiful at night, and it can only get better with a romantic meal at Bunker Cafe.

The charming spot overlooking the ocean is the perfect date place on the island. The food is fresh, tasty and affordable. On a clear night, you can stay outside on the windy hill, under the stars. If it gets too cold, you can go inside and still enjoy the view from the large glass windows. Watch out for the flying beetles, although it can be the perfect excuse to hold on tight to your date.

5. Vatang Grill - Located south of the main island of Basco, this restaurant is a little bit out of the way. But there's no traffic, and the food is definitely worth a trip.

Vatang grill has options for meat eaters as well as vegetarians

The place is modeled after the traditional Ivatan houses, but inside are the comforts of modern facilities. The tiled washroom is large and spotless, and diners can watch a documentary about Batanes on wide screen monitors while waiting for their order. All the food groups are well-represented on the menu, so meat eaters and all kinds of vegetarians will be happy here.

6. Honesty Cafe
- A must-visit spot right beside the port in Ivana, Honesty Cafe is the only place on the island where customers aren’t greeted with a smile. In fact, customers aren't greeted at all, because no one mans the small store. Instead, there is a box below a sign that says "Please pay here" and instructions posted on the wall. Customers must pay the exact amount, unless someone happens to be around to give them change. As a result, some customers end up buying more than they planned. Fortunately, the cafe offers everything from matches to souvenirs, so it's not difficult to find something worth your money.

Bring loose change when you visit Honesty Cafe

With the exception of the art gallery, all the spots mentioned here are eating places, meant to be stopovers for meals in between tours. But even without sightseeing, rainy days are best spent wrapped in blankets, or reading books. Gray weather reminds us that we need comfort - in a hug, a good story, inspiring art or a nice, hot meal. – GMA News

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