Fishermen have known about the butanding that gather in the
watery depths off the coast of Bicol for centuries, but the transformation of
Donsol from sleeping fishing village to whale-shark spotting centre is a more
recent phenomenon. In 1998, a Filipino dive team spotted startling numbers of
whale sharks and alerted the World Wildlife Fund, and it set the wheels in
motion for one of the most successful community tourism projects in Asia.
Historically, butanding were viewed with fear by local
fishermen, who noted their resemblance to deadlier denizens of the deep.
However, the involvement of marine experts led to an official ban on fishing for
whale sharks, and a new-found respect for them among Donsol residents. With
money coming in from managed shark dives, butanding suddenly had a greater value
alive than dead, providing a powerful incentive for conservation.
From the outset, diving at Donsol was promoted with the welfare
of the whale sharks in mind. Scuba diving was banned – sharks are spooked by the
noise of bubbles from diving equipment – and swimmers were allowed to enter the
water only with a mask and snorkel, in small, managed groups.
Without tanks and
regulators, the encounter is more intimate; you are a visitor in their
world.
While Donsol is firmly on the international diving map, this is
not your average diving hub. It remains a sleepy fishing village – aside from
the visitor centre, a scattering of Filipino-style resorts and the occasional
jeepney, there is little to disturb the peace. In the evening, nightlife takes
the form of beers on the balcony and firefly-spotting cruises on the local
creek.
The adventure unfolds
There's a tangible excitement in the air as the pump boat chugs
out from Donsol. For one thing, there's the knowledge that you have to be ready
to leap into the water at a moment's notice when the attending butanding
interaction officer (BIO) spots a cruising whale shark. Then there's the thrill
that comes from knowing you'll be sharing the water with the world's biggest
fish.
As the boat skips across the waves, everyone is on tenterhooks,
scanning the surface of the water for telltale eddies or fins … then the call
goes up: "Jump!" You grab your mask and leap into the water. First there's the
jolt that comes from sudden immersion, then your heart skips a second beat as a
fish as long as a bus glides beneath you. You maintain a respectful distance,
but the shark seems unperturbed by the strange flapping creatures from the
surface.
Whale sharks may be filter feeders, but they're unmistakably
sharks. Fears evaporate as the graceful ballet unfolds, however. The opening and
closing of the giant mouth. The rippling of the gills. The steady sweep of the
gigantic tail. Then the shark turns, drops out of view, and melts back into the
deep, dense blue.
The focus at Donsol is not on spotting whale sharks, but on
"interactions". On a good day, swimmers can encounter a dozen. To put that into
context, the great marine explorer Jacques Cousteau saw just two in his
lifetime. It's a wild encounter, and there's an element of chance, but in peak
season, when sharks gather to feed and breed, sightings are almost
guaranteed.
Making it happen
Jeepneys and air-con mini vans run to Donsol from Legaspi,
which is served by regular flights and buses from Manila. Peak season for whale
sharks is February to May when plankton provide ample food. No dive
certification is needed; you just must be able to swim. There are resorts
(Giddy's Place is the pick) and centres in Donsol for dives elsewhere along the
coast.
Essential Experiences
* Feeling the spray on your face as the pump boat skims across
the waves.
* Glimpsing your first butanding gliding through the silent
depths.
* Getting up close and with manta rays off Ticao Island.
* Scouting for fireflies on the Ogod River.
* Admiring the symmetry of Mount Mayon, the world's most
perfect volcano, in nearby Legaspi.
Location: Donsol, Sorsogon, Bicol, the
Philippines.
Ideal time commitment: Three days.
Best time of year: February to May.
Top tip: Bring your own mask and snorkel for
a watertight fit.
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